Wild Wild East

With Anna we have a secret plan – going cross Romania from East to West and from North to South. After first hitchhiking trip we have knew Arad, Alba Julia, Deva on the West. Now is time for “wild wild east” and … coast. Kike said, that Delta Danube is wonderful place to see, so we packed our backpack, wrote destinations – Buzau, Tulcea, Sulina –  and started new adventure!


As it would turn out we are typical tourist. When we have choice between two roads, we always choose wrong. Before the trip we had studied on  map and chosen the shortest (in our mind) road, which was… passing cross the mountain. So in the end it was a longer way to Tulcea but in the same time it was the most beautiful road I’ve ever took: with a lot of serpentines among the mountains painted in all kinds of green, so close to clouds 😉


This time weather wasn’t our supporter 🙁 From the first day till last, almost all the time it was raining or if not – it was a strong wind and clouds followed us.

At least in  Galati the storm caught us in the ferry’s harbour. We were stopped by the wall of rain. It was impossible to see anything throw the rain neither crossed the Danube.


Next day we took a boat from Tulcea to Sulina. There is only one boat per a day and travel takes 4 hours. You can find, on this boat, everything – from of course people, through omnipresent in Romania big pattern bags, chicken, provisions of water and coca cola like for the army to furniture and wash machine.


In Sulina, maybe because of the weather, maybe because of the time (last weekend of May, still before the season) we and two Germans were the only tourist and we had the most beautiful beach for our own. It was after the storm, so beach looked like a graveyard of shells! We didn’t feel sand under foot, just shells.


We had also trip by small boat. The Danube Delta is totally amazing and wild. In small village (only 25 family has been living there) houses still have thatched roofs and walls from mud.


At least on the road to Mamaia we stopped in Babadag (Oggy said that in Turkish it means “Father of Mountain’). The city wasn’t in our mind, but sometimes road is your guide 😉 So our road led us to Babadag – to the end of the world 😉 For me is special place, because of the Andrzej Stasiuk book “Driving to Babadag” – “the diary of a journey through Slovakia, Hungary and Romania, in other words, as Stasiuk provocatively puts it, “the less obvious countries”*. After reading this book I felt in love with Romania.

Some years ago a lot of polish travelers used to go there to check what was so interesting in this city to inspire Stasiuk to write book about Central Europe. I had in my head some post from book & travel forum: “What the hell he saw in this city?! There is nothing!”. They have right. In Babadag you can’t fine nothing interesting to see. It’s typical small city with mosque, small bus station and post communist restaurant in the center. The life is passing slowly there. It seems to be forgotten by people and God. But maybe in this “nothing” is the secret 😉



*Marek Zaleski, Book Institute Pl




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